Remember the power-dressing back in the late 80s? The padded shoulder blazer with the carrot-cut trousers with a sleek pointy shoes which dominated the fashion trend of menswear back then; I remember that pretty vividly as it’s the time that I start my journey in men’s fashion; for some reason, I realized that such silhouette is making their come-back, in an updated and colorful way, especially when I was looking at Berluti FW2020 menswear collection, the dynamic and vibrant colors that lifts our mood from the stagnated and depressing world, to a more joyful and fashionable one.
With the runway show held in Opera Garnier Paris, the collection provokes the evolution of male dressing, under the direction of Kris Van Assche, the artistic director, this season’s menswear collection is an interpretation of tradition meets contemporary, the exaggerated exchange between past and present, through the intelligent use of colors, patterns and luxurious materials.
One can find an array of vibrant colors from Hibiscus red, Fucshia pink to fluorescent yellow and electric blue, in a relaxed cut double-breasted jacket with a gentle shoulder padding, pairing with a straight yet comfortably cut trousers, which reminds me of the power-dressing and ‘discotheque’ in the late 80s, but in a more contemporary fashion. While respecting the maison’s heritage, the house signature patina has also been used in the leather suit, pairing with the slender leather trousers and the diamond-shaped Alessandro shoes, which reminiscent to the deep root of the house’s shoe-making legacy, a continual contrast between old and new.
Another evidence that one can find the tradition in this collection, is the sartorial elements that reminds us of the art of men’s tailoring, such as the Prince of Wales checks and houndstooth pattern, used in either a double-face wool coat or leather jacket, matching with the weekender bag that using the house new canvas named ‘Signature’ collaborated with a British luggage firm, Globe-Trotter, which offers a new breathe of air from a classic scritto motif, to something that is fashionable and modern looking.
Let the vibrancy of color empowers not just our sense of style, but also our wardrobe for this Fall winter as well.
Image courtesy of Berluti Hong Kong / Karla Otto Hong Kong