Champagne artistry of Urville – “Grande Sendrée" & "Trop m’en faut!” by Champagne Drappier
- Jun 10
- 3 min read
Dear readers, about a month ago, an invitation arrived in my mailbox for Vinexpo Asia 2026, one of the most exciting events of the year for wine lovers. It gathers not only some of the world’s most prominent wineries, but also a number of newer names that are not always easy to find in local wine shops or restaurants. As my curiosity drew me back to the fair, it also occurred to me that I had not written about wine and champagne for quite some time. So, as a prelude to this new wine series, I would like to begin with one of my favourite Champagne houses, which I had the pleasure of revisiting at Vinexpo Asia this year.
It was entirely unexpected to come across the booth of Champagne Drappier, the respected family-owned champagne house from Urville, at Vinexpo Asia this time. What made the moment especially meaningful was my reunion with the house’s president, Mr. Michel Drappier, whom I had not seen for nearly a decade! As the seventh generation of the family, he continues to steward the house with remarkable energy and dedication, welcoming guests with genuine warmth at the booth. His hospitality immediately brought back memories of my visit to his family's cellar and the estate in July 2015, a memory that still feels vivid and heartfelt.
One of the pleasures of visiting the booth of Champagne Drappier was tasting a wide range of the house’s cuvées and recent releases, which gave me another chance to appreciate the house’s distinctive savoir-faire. Although I had previously written about this champagne house back in 2014 and their impressive “Charles de Gaulle” champagne, this visit offered a broader encounter with its range, including newer still wines that reflect the house’s innovative spirit. I also learned more about the maison’s updated branding, including the understated and refined label designs developed with creative input from Michel’s children, as seen in special cuvées such as “Perpétuité” and “Permission”. These details give the collection a more contemporary edge while remaining faithful to the house’s heritage.
Among the champagnes I tasted, two of them stood out in particular. The first was “Grande Sendrée Millésime Brut 2012”, whose elegant Louis XV bottle and label evoke a certain Belle Époque sensibility interpreted through a modern lens. Composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, with aging in casks, this vintage offers a layered, structured, and refined profile. On the palate, it unfolds with remarkable grace: bright fruit, sparkly mineral, and a subtle spiciness and toasty depth that makes it both concentrated and poised. It is the kind of champagne that can be enjoyed beautifully on its own, even without food pairing. Its buttery texture and complexity create an experience that feels almost like reading a forgotten fairytale — elegant, dreamlike, and subtly captivating.
The second one that I found intriguing is their “Trop m’en faut!” champagne, a particularly memorable cuvée made from 100% Fromenteau, also known as Pinot Gris, a forgotten champagne grape variety, with base wines drawn equally from the 2019 and 2020 harvests. Aged on laths for 3 years and left unfiltered or clarified, it expresses the house’s willingness to explore less conventional paths while remaining deeply rooted in craftsmanship. Created by Michel and his son Hugo, its name translates as “too much is not enough”, adding a playful note to this unique edition on top of the artistic label design. In the glass, it reveals a golden hue and a rich yet graceful character, with notes that suggest white flowers, apricot, pineapple, and a hint of honey and mirabelle. Silky and full-bodied, it feels both distinctive and composed, and it would be equally appealing on its own or with fish, simple pasta, and summer vegetable dishes.
These are the kinds of champagne that deserve a place in a collector’s cellar, especially for those who already have an affection for this house and its style. It remains a champagne house that honours tradition while still leaving room for creativity, diversity, and innovation; that balance is precisely what makes it so compelling. It is rather like reuniting with an old friend you have not seen for a decade: the bond remains steadfast, yet there are still new surprises to discover.
Image courtesy of Champagne Drappier, Urville.