Relaxed masculinity – Berluti SS2018
When it comes to refined menswear, apart from well-fitted and well-tailored, I also incline to comfortability too, don’t get me wrong that by meaning 'comfortability', one has to sacrifice being sophisticated and stylish to be comfortable, on the other hand, it’s quite a contrary, with the intense influence and reference of street and sportswear, some of those elements have been injected into high fashion, and, with the intelligent twist by designers, the new high-end fashion has become more relaxed, yet remains the luxurious details, making it much more versatile, thanks to the use of light-weight and sumptuous fabrics, soothing color palette, thoughtful cutting and fit, just like the Berluti SS2018 collection for instance, it definitely hits all the criteria that is needed for the new luxury – making the wearer to look effortlessly stylish and comfortable.
Inspired by a photo by the acclaimed American-German photographer, Erwin Blumenfeld, renowned by his experimental double-exposures and reworking of colors, ones can feel the at-ease yet luxurious comfort from an array of neutral and soft tones, such as the serene ivory, crispy biscuit khaki and cement grey, adding the pale greyish pink and sky blue, makes one thinking about the moment of tranquil and relaxed elegance by the coast under a sunny sky.
In terms of the silhouette, the phrase ‘lightness’ and ‘sleek’ just prompt in my head when looking at this collection, a soft monochromatic jacket or overcoat with a luxurious jersey top, pair with a slender jogging pants or a silky band on a trousers, which expresses the modernity of relaxed tailoring and the innovative twist from urbane sportswear. Beside a well-tailored ‘armour’ for the business day look, I do have an eye on the ‘off duty’ look actually, a perfect example would be the polished milky white bomber jacket with a cement grey jersey top and trousers, which gives so much of sophistication and gentleness, yet, it’s certainly comfortable, chic and luxurious.
When it comes to this renowned leathergoods house, of course their bags and shoes are also noteworthy for this season, key items included the double-faced leather tote bag which looks modern and effortless, it’s ideal for a weekend getaway. Footwear becomes much relaxed than ever, the new flat slipper, which made of one single piece of leather, is prevalent throughout the entire show; On the other hand, the leather boots becomes lower cut yet complement the relaxed tailoring look harmoniously.
The weather is still cool by now, but our craving for stylish and comfortable menswear is still hot, so, are you getting ready to refresh your closet?
Image courtesy of Berluti / Karla Otto Hong Kong