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Abstract freedom - Berluti Winter 2021 menswear collection

Sometimes I find it very impressive to see how resilient we are, to deal and overcome the impact that brought along by the pandemic, even in the fashion world, the constant pursue of creativity and excellence didn’t stop designers to think of a new solution and format to present their work to the world; For Berluti Winter 2021 menswear for instance, it is a combination of intelligence and creativity with this year’s collection being presented in a performance art installation staged digitally in Paris and Shanghai with attendance.

A refreshing way to express a sense of freedom found within the boundaries of constraint, mindful rather than physical, the Winter 2021 collection adapts the works of the Berlin-based Russian contemporary artist, Lev Khesin, which expresses himself in abstract, tactile patterns created through multiple layers and colours of silicone paint, echoes the brand’s artisanal patina methods, with drawings as a natural connection between both the visual and the practical domains of the artist, and Creative Director, Kris Van Assche.

An intriguing mix of color palette, from earth tune and powdery grey to lava orange to cobalt blue and deep purple, and the relaxed silhouette which creates the foundation of the collection that embodied by fluidity, adaptability, and the human hand. The signature colouration of Berluti’s classic shoes, patina evolves in leather jackets dyed and faded by hand, in a fully hand-stitched coat evoking one of the artworks, and the stitching becomes the pattern itself.

While for the bags, they echo the fluidity of the collection in soft and supple manifestations, which adorned with charms including Berluti’s signature shoe tree and multi-colour pendants by the Spanish artist Jorge Penadés. Shoes embody the techniques of garments, from the upcycled triple-layered platform sole of the derby, to a textured platform foam sole morphed with a classic leather shoe.

No matter how our life changes due to the pandemic, for a style-savvy group of us, our constant pursue of beautiful design and style will not stop just here, only perhaps, it's more on the digital side, for now.

Image courtesy of Berluti Hong Kong / Karl Otto Hong Kong


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