From Naples with style – “Rubinacci and the Story of Neapolitan Tailoring” by Nick Foulkes (2011)
- mymoderndarcy
- Dec 21, 2025
- 3 min read
Dear readers, further to my previous blog about Italian style and a serendipitous vintage book find, I would like to extend this narrative in this new blog, a stylish sequel for those captivated by the world of Neapolitan tailoring or anyone yearning for a spark of refined inspiration as the festive season approaches. During that same fortuitous vintage book hunt, I uncovered a truly stylish gem - "Rubinacci and the Story of Neapolitan Tailoring", a volume that invites the reader to step into the rich history and inimitable elegance of this iconic Neapolitan house. Having admired Rubinacci’s work from afar, and often found myself drawn into the magnetic presence of Mr. Luca Rubinacci’s sartorial style on social media, it’s truly thrilling to now hold in my hands a book that traces the aesthetic and legacy of one of Italy’s most distinguished tailoring dynasties.
Published by DoubleF Publishing in January 2011 and elegantly authored by renowned British journalist, Mr. Nick Foulkes, the book paints an evocative portrait of Neapolitan tailoring’s cultural roots and enduring allure. Foulkes, celebrated for his insight into luxury lifestyles, chronicles both the personal journey of the Rubinacci family and the broader story of Neapolitan sartorial excellence. Naples, with its sun-soaked charm and centuries-old heritage, is revealed here as a crucible for men's style, a city where tradition is always in conversation with innovation.
Tracing its origins to 1932, the Rubinacci house was founded in Naples by the stylish visionary, Mr. Gennaro Rubinacci, who named his atelier "London House" to channel the prestige of British tailoring through an exuberantly Neapolitan lens. Gennaro, himself not a tailor by training but a passionate art collector and style savant, understood deeply the soul of clothing. His obsession with construction, fabric, and composition quickly attracted the city's sartorial elite. Yet, unlike the structured and formal suits of Savile Row, Rubinacci's vision was for a relaxed yet luxurious style — suits that were soft, unlined, and unrestrictive, designed as much for celebration as for the everyday. These design choices were radical at the time, but they soon became signatures of Neapolitan tailoring and marked the beginning of Rubinacci’s international allure.
Today, the house remains firmly in the family, overseen by Gennaro’s grandson, Mr. Mariano Rubinacci, and great-grandson, Luca. Luca's thoughtful stewardship of both the brand’s ready-to-wear collections and its public image has helped preserve — and reinvent — the house as a beacon of classic men’s style and “sprezzatura”, the effortless elegance for which Neapolitans are so admired. The pieces produced by their atelier blend fluid, lightweight silhouettes with masterful craftsmanship: the iconic soft shoulders, high armholes, artfully curved "barchetta" breast pockets, and vibrant fabrics are instantly recognizable, each tailored with passion and precision.
This book is as much a celebration as it is a chronicle; with resourceful research and vivid storytelling, the author takes the reader through the evolution of Rubinacci and the hereditary artistry that still flourishes in the family-run atelier. The pages reveal not just the details — like signature patch pockets and the nuanced palette of house fabrics — but also the spirit that animates Neapolitan tailoring: clothing that is stylish, supremely comfortable, and rich with heritage.
For those looking to refine their own festive attire, the book’s insights into construction and detail may inspire a personal exploration of Neapolitan style, perhaps bringing a touch of Rubinacci’s flair to your own holiday gatherings. It serves as a reminder that style, when guided by history and made personal by artful practitioners, can embody both tradition and irresistible sensuality.
May this blog open your eyes to the beauty and uniqueness of Neapolitan tailoring, and perhaps encourage you to capture a touch of its artistic legacy in your wardrobe this holiday season. Wishing you all a stylish and memorable holiday — Merry Christmas.