Poetic whispers of luxury - Brunello Cucinelli “Incanti Poetici" perfume collection
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Dear readers, cashmere has long been regarded as one of the most luxurious natural materials in the world, often described as “soft gold” or a “diamond fibre”, sourced from the undercoat of Capra hircus goats, primarily in Mongolia and the Himalayan regions, it is prized for its exceptional softness, lightness, and warmth; combined with its rarity, each goat produces only a small quantity of usable fibre during the spring moulting season, this makes cashmere one of the most valuable materials in the world. I have always had an obsession with cashmere, even as a young man in my luxury fashion retail days, I found myself constantly investing in timelessly sophisticated cashmere sweaters, a habit that has continued ever since. Over time, such obsession grew into an idea: to create a fragrance that could translate the texture and hand-feel of this precious fabric into a scent — soft, light, precious, luxurious, airy, and warm — an ambition that eventually materialised in my second niche perfume creation.
At first glance, cashmere and perfume may seem unrelated, each appealing to a different sense: one experienced through touch, the other through smell. Yet under the innovative vision of the Italian luxury cashmere house, Brunello Cucinelli, making these two sensory worlds come together. In April 2023, the Italian cashmere maison launched its first namesake fragrances, one for women and one for men, offering cashmere lovers a new way to experience the house’s sumptuous world, not only through the feel of the luxurious soft cashmere sweater on their skin, but also by breathing in the maison’s artistry and philosophy. For perfume connoisseurs, it also opened a door into how this Italian cashmere house interprets style in olfactory form. Then, in late 2024, the brand introduced a new perfume collection named “Incanti Poetici” (Poetic Enchantments), a series of six fragrances created by some of the world’s most esteemed perfumers, taking its olfactory universe to another level. I have been yearning to explore these perfumes since the first launches, and only just before the start of the Lunar New Year holiday a couple of weeks ago did I finally acquire a charming miniature discovery set, allowing me to step more fully into the scented realm of this luxury cashmere house and echo my enduring love for both this noble fibre and fine fragrance.
Conceived as an olfactory interpretation of the maison’s heritage and philosophy — the dream of a natural and profoundly human elegance, infused with nobility, grace, harmony, a poetic bond with Italian nature, and a homage to Solomeo, the hilltop village that is home to the maison — “Incanti Poetici” invites one on an emotional journey. The collection, launched back in late 2024, consists of six gender-neutral perfumes, each composed by a different renowned perfumer: “Ombra Lirica” by Alberto Morillas, “Brezza Gentile” by Daphné Bugey, “Sogno Notturno” by Quentin Bisch, “Vie Éterée” by Benoist Lapouza, “Soffio Zenit” by Florian Gallo, and “Vento Ardente” by Jordi Fernández. Together, they form an ode to beauty and invite the wearer to experience spirituality and emotion in a poetic, olfactory language.
Produced in partnership with Italian luxury beauty company, EuroItalia, all the fragrances in this collection are made in Italy and conceived as genderless perfumes. In addition to using high-quality materials, the brand has taken thoughtful steps regarding packaging and environmental impact; the presentation boxes are crafted from elemental chlorine-free (ECF) paper, handmade in a paper mill in Solomeo, while each cap is made from a single material, aluminium, and it is fully recyclable. Each bottle itself is incorporated a percentage of certified post-consumer recycled (PCR) glass, underscoring the maison’s commitment to reducing its environmental footprint.
With an olfactory spectrum ranging from soft to deep, leathery to fruity, “Incanti Poetici” offers a nuanced palette to suit different tastes and preferences among perfume lovers and connoisseurs. In view of the transitional season from spring to summer, I am particularly drawn to two perfumes from the collection: “Brezza Gentile” and “Vie Éterée”.
Conceived around the idea of a secret garden, a refuge that gathers peace, beauty, and harmony, “Brezza Gentile” reflects a rich inner life and invites the wearer into a meditative, mysterious world. The perfume opens with luminous citrus top notes of bitter orange and Sicilian lemon, brightened by elemi; in the heart, patchouli, pink pepper, and ambergris accord evoke earthy depth and an enigmatic warmth, before the composition settles into a base of Clearwood, Ambroxan, and benzoin. These woody, gently ozonic notes create a sophisticated, soft embrace that grounds and uplifts at the same time. Even within its misty, secret-garden atmosphere, the perfume radiates a subtle spirituality that calms and intrigues, while also feeling liberating and understatedly chic.
“Vie Éterée,” by contrast, transports one to a brighter, more vibrant and uplifting state of mind, wrapped in a quiet-luxury aura. It opens with sparkling Italian citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot, Citron Orpur, and pink pepper, the perfume then moves into a more energetic, green facet as the citrus notes continues alongside with Virginia citron, Egyptian basil, and cardamom. Finally, it dries down into a subtle, mellow impression of harmonious luxury with Ambrofix and Cashmeran, adding gentle woody and lightly balsamic nuances. “Vie Éterée” is inspired by the dialogue between Mediterranean coastlines and the Italian countryside, thanks to its lively zest and airy freshness, it paints a vivid picture of Italian summer, coastal escapes and resort nonchalance, while allowing the wearer’s free-spirited, gentle side to emerge through its refined base, perhaps that’s the reason this perfume becomes my personal favourite from the collection. To me, it is an ideal companion for summer getaways, particularly to those beloved Italian luxury resort destinations from the Amalfi Coast to Lake Como, quietly echoing one’s understated elegance, quiet-luxury wardrobe, and even those indulgent with those light and luxurious summer cashmere pieces.
What once sounded almost too good to be true has now become a reality: the precious, indulgent world of cashmere can be experienced not only by touch on the skin, but also through a discerning, style-savvy nose.