History, elegance, and Gilded Age culinary excellence - “Dining at Delmonico's: The Story of America's Oldest Restaurant” by Judith Choate and James Canora (2008)

Dear readers, Thanksgiving may not traditionally be associated with style or menswear, yet it remains a meaningful holiday that evokes the warmth of autumn and the cherished moments spent with loved ones. While many prefer a cozy, home-cooked Thanksgiving dinner, others opt to celebrate this special evening at a stylish restaurant, enjoying a delicately crafted meal amidst family and friends. Suppose you find yourself still deciding where and how to dine in style this Thanksgiving; in that case, I hope this sumptuous vintage book titled “Dining at Delmonico’s: The Story of America’s Oldest Restaurant” will offer you some inspiring ideas.

Published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang in October 2008, this exquisite volume was written by Ms. Judith Choate, a pioneering chef and writer celebrated for promoting American cuisine, alongside Mr. James Canora, a corporate chef consultant at Delmonico’s. Accompanied by photography from Mr. Steve Pool, the book traces the rich history of this renowned American culinary institution, while also presenting a wealth of authentic recipes, including iconic dishes such as Eggs Benedict, the Delmonico steak, and Baked Alaska.

Founded by Swiss brothers Mr. Giovanni (John) and Mr. Pietro (Peter) Delmonico in 1827, the establishment began as a modest pastry shop and café at 25 Williams Street in New York City. With the success of their venture and the later inclusion of their nephew, Mr. Lorenzo Delmonico, they envisioned introducing sophisticated European-style haute cuisine to the United States. This vision culminated in the opening of their first formal restaurant, Delmonico’s, in 1831.

Delmonico’s earned acclaim for pioneering the à la carte menu, which paid homage to traditional French dining, offering a refined atmosphere complete with white tablecloths and the novelty of a separate wine list; this upscale dining experience quickly gained popularity. After the devastating Great Fire of New York in 1835, the brothers relocated to 56 Beaver Street, opening a grand new location in 1837 as what it stands nowadays. This three-story building boasted sumptuously appointed private dining rooms and imposing columns allegedly imported from the ruins of Pompeii.

In 1862, Delmonico’s hired the legendary Chef Charles Ranhofer, whose innovative approach blended French culinary sophistication with American tastes. Under his guidance, the restaurant cemented its status as one of New York’s most celebrated dining establishments, attracting an elite clientele of politicians, socialites, and intellectuals.

Despite its prestige, Delmonico’s eventually slipped from the family’s control and closed in 1923. The restaurant was revived in 1926 by Italian immigrant, Mr. Oscar Tucci, who rebranded it as Oscar’s Delmonico. Tucci’s stewardship preserved the restaurant’s legacy by maintaining its original menus and recipes, drawing a galaxy of notable patrons, from famed actors such as Marilyn Monroe, Rock Hudson to Elizabeth Taylor, as well as late US President JFK, and first lady Jackie Kennedy Onassis. The restaurant experienced further closures and reopenings: it shuttered again in 1977, reopened from 1981 to 1992 under different ownership, and was renovated before reopening again in 1998 under new management.

Throughout this book, readers can discover the unique grandeur of Delmonico’s renowned hospitality and meticulous attention to table settings and service protocol. For instance, oysters were almost always served first, soup was only served after oysters, and hot dessert only followed the roast course; each serving sequence was precise, and there was even an artful presentation for caviar. These traditions reflect the founding restaurateurs’ unwavering commitment to excellence and precision, a dedication to delivering the most sophisticated dining experience rooted in French and European heritage. Delmonico’s introduced l’art de la table to America, fostering the flourishing of gastronomy culture in the New World.

Another treasure of this volume is its collection of over 80 recipes, including signature dishes spanning salads, meat and game, fish and shellfish, and desserts, each presented with artistic flair. This book serves as both a culinary time capsule and an homage to the Gilded Age’s American gastronomic culture, encapsulating the elegance of refined living and the storied history crafted by the Delmonico brothers. It inspires contemporary festive dining experiences for celebrations and anniversaries alike.

Now under new ownership since early 2023, Delmonico’s remains a distinguished New York landmark, emblematic of the birth of fine dining and American haute cuisine. If this historic dining room is where you choose to celebrate Thanksgiving this year, may this elegant book serve as a fitting prelude to your memorable evening.

Happy Thanksgiving.