Timeless charm of Parisian brasseries - "50 recettes Brasserie - La mémoire de Paris" by Jean-Marie Boëlle & Jean Cazals (2009)

Dear readers, I was recently captivated by a YouTube channel created by a Paris-based Japanese couple who meander through this City of Light’s various arrondissements, discovering intriguing and lesser-known restaurants and cafés. They share their experiences and the specialties of each dish, offering close looks at the presentation and tempting flavors. This eye-opening journey left me eager to jot down all these places for my next visit! Speaking of restaurants in Paris, do any of you recall the blog I wrote last year about a historic eatery named Au Petit Riche?

In that blog, I included a photograph of an open book featuring this very establishment; in fact, the book was displayed prominently right across from my table, perched atop a wooden column near the staircase. I was deeply intrigued by that book, which detailed a selection of historic brasseries in Paris along with their signature dishes and recipes. I enjoyed reading it while awaiting my meal, and its charm has lingered with me ever since. A few weeks ago, I finally secured my own copy! Titled “50 recettes Brasserie - La mémoire de Paris”, it is an essential read for anyone passionate about the history and culture of the Parisian brasserie.

Published by Glénat in 2009, and authored by French journalist, Mr. Jean-Marie Boëlle, who specializes in travel and gastronomy both in France and abroad, with photography by Mr. Jean Cazals, a respected photographer who contributed to countless cookbooks and collaborator with world-renowned chefs, this book documents ten historic Parisian brasseries, some of which are lesser known outside France. It begins with an insightful history of the Parisian brasserie tradition, exploring its societal impact, the Parisian art of living, and insights into the daily life behind the scenes in these iconic establishments. Then, it delves into each featured brasserie, starting with Au Petit Riche, which proudly claims the first chapter.

All the brasseries presented are remarkable, especially for those enamored with Parisian gastronomic history and gastronomy. A meal in these establishments provides a unique opportunity to appreciate the intangible artistry and culture of Paris firsthand. For example, the legendary La Coupole is famed not only for its stunning Art Deco interiors, but also for its historic role as an artistic hub, frequented by luminaries such as Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, and Édith Piaf.

Another iconic institution is Le Train Bleu, nestled inside Gare de Lyon train station, renowned for its magnificent Belle Époque interiors that transport diners into a French palace setting. This glamorous venue has long attracted celebrities, artists, and high society, remaining a gastronomic landmark in Paris.

Then there’s Le Grand Colbert, celebrated for its authentic French cuisine and internationally recognized for its feature in the 2003 film “Something’s Gotta Give”, starring Diane Keaton and Jack Nicholson. This brasserie enchants guests with its 17th-century architectural details and nostalgic Parisian elegance. Alongside these famous houses are the equally captivating but lesser-known brasseries such as Gallopin, Bofinger, and Mollard, each boasting well-preserved interiors brimming with Art Nouveau aesthetics and refined elegance.

Beyond the ambiance and history, each brasserie’s signature dish is vital to their identity; this book offers not just historical context but also detailed recipes for these culinary highlights, inviting readers to envision the dishes or even attempt to recreate them at home before tasting the authentic flavors in Paris itself. Perhaps this unique blend of gastronomic history and rare recipes is what makes this book so engrossing.

You may have noticed I’ve used “restaurant” and “brasserie” somewhat interchangeably in this blog, which can indeed be confusing (even for myself!). During my visit to Paris last year, I asked a Parisian friend of mine about the difference between “brasserie” and “restaurant”, and here it is: a “brasserie” traditionally denotes a more informal establishment offering traditional French quick meals accompanied by beer and wine, with a lively, bustling atmosphere encouraging socializing. In contrast, a “restaurant” typically conveys a more formal dining experience with discreet service and elevated culinary artistry. While restaurants can range from casual to formal, they usually operate during set lunch and dinner hours, typically starting around 7:00 or 7:30 PM.

Finally, though this book is available only in French, it opens a fascinating window into the historic world of Parisian brasseries and their gastronomic heritage. Beyond the allure of luxury shopping or designer labels, it enriches one’s understanding of Paris’s quintessential culture and the beauty of the Parisian art of living. This book invites readers to savor not just exquisite meals but also the stories and traditions that elevate dining in Paris into a timeless and enchanting experience.

For those yearning to savor authentic Parisian life beyond the surface, exploring the brasseries documented within these pages — and, ideally, visiting them — promises a profoundly enriching journey. It’s not merely about food but about embracing a vibrant part of Parisian history, culture, and joie de vivre that continues to live and breathe in every corner of this magnificent city.